Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 report

Ciao from Milano! Mere weeks after Salone del Mobile 2021, the Italian fashion capital’s show

Ciao from Milano! Mere weeks after Salone del Mobile 2021, the Italian fashion capital’s show season is back with a bang, with S/S 2022 serving up IRL and digital experiences, from a host of behemoth and burgeoning brands, from Fendi to Andrea Adamo, Prada to Sunnei, across a plethora of landmark locations. It’s been 18 months since Milan hosted such a bumper week of shows and presentations. Here’s everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022, as it happens.

Versace

Campaign star Dua Lipa dazzling on the runway, topless male models pulling on bell pulls fromt the sky, bold Versace silks billowing like flags in the breeze, chainmail, leather, neon, scintillating sex appeal…what more could you want from a Versace fashion catwalk show? After eighteen months of standout collection films, the doyenne of drama Donatella Versace was back with an IRL bang for S/S 2022. Spring served up a vibrant, body-flaunting men’s and women’s offering, revelling in Versace signatures: cut-out tailoring securing with crayola coloured safety pins, draped dresses slashed to reveal glimpses of foulard silk, basketball vests and handkerchief tops paired with relaxed suiting, trenchcoats patchworked with the Baroque El Greco motif. Just like Dua Lipa’s album name, a flawless blend of Future Nostalgia.

Prada

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Prada Shanghai runway show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Prada runway show
Prada S/S 2022

Prada’s subtly subversive sex appeal is back for spring. Simmering seduction took centre stage at the label’s first physical runway show since Raf Simons was appointed co-creative director of the brand in February 2020. In a digitally-minded, forward-thinking runway show, that saw two simultaneous catwalks presented at the Deposito space of the Prada Foundation in Milan and in Shanghai’s Bund One, models sported seemingly models duchesse satin dresses in orange, sorbet pink and neon green, which were opened to reveal a flash of flesh at the back. Mini skirts trailed with a train of fabric, mannish white shirts were boned with corsetry details, pea coats slouched in distressed leather and once conservative button-up polo shirts were moulded around the bust. ‘Pieces trace ideas and outlines of dress – the memory of a train, the bones of a corset, the curve of a brassiere,’ read the brand’s show notes, of silhouettes that interacted with the body, reduced in structure and synonymous with seduction.

Missoni

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Emporio Armani runway show

Sex appeal hasn’t been subtle for spring. Body-flaunting forms defined the debut catwalk collection of new Missoni creative director Alberto Caliri, who delivered bold, seductive looks which tap into S/S 2022’s youth-focused insouciantly sexy mood. Torso revealing knits and patchwork body suits, in Missoni’s signature chevron stripes and colourful hues, were paired with slouchy denim, zig-zag and zebra print weave dresses were daring in cut-out details and bikini tops were layered with oversized shirting. Fabrics glittered and the skin shimmered. Missoni’s spring woman is prepped for a party in plein air, and she’s anything but a wallflower. 

Tod’s

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Tod’s runway show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Tod’s runway show

Tod’s S/S 2022

A sportswear-centric ease defined Walter Chiapponi’s most sophisticated offering for Tod’s to date. In a collection revelling in luxurious, naturalistic and boldy-hued tones, subtly Space Age padded jackets traced the contours of the body, decolletage-flaunting A-line dresses skimmed the thigh, and shirt dresses curved with balloon sleeves. Focus on fabrication and handcraft was key as cowl neck t-shirts and cropped jackets were imagined in buttery leather, asymmetric blazers from dark denim and mini-dresses, polo shirts and gently flaring trousers in colourful intarsia knits and with densely fringed details. ‘Sartorial design and materials from jersey to the finest leathers are used to construct a wardrobe that has a desire for relaxation, but at the same time exalts good taste and quality,’ read the brand’s show notes.

Blumarine

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Emporio Armani runway show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Emporio Armani runway show
Blumarine S/S 2022

A yearning for Y2K has been prevalent in recent seasons – noted in the body-con skimpy silhouettes and lingerie fabrics on the S/S 2022 catwalks. It’s a The Simple Life-centric aesthetic made most explicit by Blumarine’s Nicola Brognano, who was made creative director of the label in 2019. For spring, the brand served up a collection of candy-coloured, skin-flaunting, wispy silhouettes suitable for Gen Z It-girls everywhere, featuring denim hot pants, candy floss pink biker jackets, trompe l’oeil denim dresses, beaded crop tops and fur-lined cardigans. This look is unabashed, unapologetic and revelling bad taste. If the butterfly-motif, crystal-sparkling accessories aren’t enough for you, a pedigree dog is sure to set off the Blumarine silhouette. The collection’s stylist Lotta Volkova had her poodle Dima backstage.

Emporio Armani

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Emporio Armani runway show

Emporio Armani is a brand emblematic of the city of Milan, and in the midst of its landmark 40th anniversary celebration. At the brand’s Tadao Ando-designed Teatro Armani show space, a celebratory decade-spanning film opened the S/S 2022 catwalk show, charting Emporio Armani’s impact on global fashion worldwide: its attention to tailoring, sensuality and style. For spring, Mr Armani imagined a desert adventure culminating in a colour-drenched oasis, with a men’s and women’s collection swathed in sandy hues, refreshing blues and jewel-tone greens and reds, featuring deconstructed denim and signature soft suiting, relaxed sportswear and embellished eveningwear looks that sashayed down the runway drenched in beading and sequins. An exhibition charting four decades of the brand is housed opposite the Armani Teatro in the Armani Silos space, brimming with extensive historic imagery, archive pieces and an extraordinary sense of achievement.

Etro

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Etro runway show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Etro runway show

Etro S/S 2022

In their out-of-office inspired, escapist attitude, brands are dipping across decades for inspiration. Cue Veronica Etro, who for S/S 2022, seamlessly blended the tropes of 1970s and 1990s dressing, with a collection of glamorous, insouciant, holiday-ready looks, swathed in embellishments ready to jangle on the shores of sandy beaches or on an open-air dance floor. To the transportative sounds of Moby and Massive Attack, models walked the catwalk sporting pieces riffing on bohemanism and sportswear, from floral polo necks paired with chainmail mini skirts, to slouchy denim sported with colourful crochet bras, sarong skirts teamed with cropped bomber jackets and fluid dresses revealing flashes of torso. Modern, soulful silhouettes made for an adventure-filled, glittering escape.

Boss x Russell Athletic

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Boss x Russell Athletic show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Boss x Russell Athletic show
Boss X Russell Athletic Pre-S/S 2022

Baseball fans, buckle up. In celebration of its latest collaborative collection, Boss and Russell Athletic took guests to the Kennedy Sports Centre, where an immersive sports game-cum-catwalk show ensued. Cue guests munching on mini pizzas, ice cream and hot dogs and sipping beer from the bleachers as a brass band blared ‘Eye of The Tiger’, cheerleaders performed nail biting twists and turns, dancing popcorn and baseball mascots whipped up the crowd, and a smoke canister-wielding flash mob made their debut. The collection designed to knock it out of the park? An offering of sporty, varsity-inspired men’s and women’s silhouettes sure to drive Gen-Z wild, including check baseball jackets, bright jersey shorts, baseball-stripe crop tops, slouchy tailoring and puffer jackets. TikTok creator Khaby Lame, who has attracted 113 million followers in just 18 months also made his runway debut.

Max Mara 

Escapism has been high on the agenda for spring, and Max Mara’s Ian Griffiths dived into the sun-drenched seductive pages of Françoise Sagan’s famed novella, Bonjour Tristesse, written in 1953 by the then 18-year-old Françoise Quoirez under a pseudonym, reimagining the wardrobe of a stylish bourgeois rebel, holidaying in a secluded villa, tempted by casinos, speedboats and hedonistic exploits. This translated into a wardrobe of breezy, ease-fuelled pieces worthy of weeks on the Amalfi Coast and the Côte d’Azur, in sandy, sunburst, nautical, and deckchair shades – like striped boxy shirts layered insouciantly with mini skirts, modernist fisherman’s smocks, workwear jackets, denim blazers and long vests, in denim, canvas, gabardine and poplin. The only accessories for a budding Beat Generation writer? A thin Alice band, chunky-soled Mary Jane sandals, slouchy shoulder bags and the concept for a sell-out literary classic.

Fendi

Kim Jones looked to the spirit of the Studio 54 dancefloor for spring, referencing Jerry Hall, Tina Chow, Pat Cleveland, Bianca Jagger and Grace Jones as inspiration. An abstract figurative illustration by Antonio Lopez formed the starting point of the offering – one which celebrated the creative circle of former creative director Karl Lagerfeld. This image was reimagined in intarsia leather, gleaming jacquards and engineered lace, tessellated across chubby fur coats, thigh-high boots, body-hugging mini dresses and gauzy silk gowns. The brand’s optimistic disco-age offering, which also marked Jones’ first live collection, was celebratory and joyful, also serving up silk suiting and fringed dresses in organic, metallic and exuberant hues. It’s time to take your turn under the disco ball.

N°21

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 No.21 runway show

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 No21 runway show

N°21 S/S 2022

Shimmering sequins, frothy of ostrich feathers, voluminous folds of taffeta, gauzy layers of organza: the materiality of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s S/S 2022 show was idiosyncratic of N°21, a label that revels in glamorous embellishments and after-dark, boudoir-inspired tones, all offset with subversive sportswear and utilitarian twists. For spring, Dell’Acqua spoke of giving in to the temptation of design, flirting with couture techniques, intuition and hand work. Dresses and bomber jackets were imagined as chunky hand-woven knits, tailoring and athleisure tropes were juxtaposed with going-out pieces – think jersey crop tops paired with plumed wrap mini skirts and silk negligees emblazoned with varsity typography. Dell’Acqua is the master of bringing a relaxed contemporary ease to seductive dialled-up dressing. What could be a more fitting style mantra for 2021?

Jil Sander

Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022 Jil Sander runway show  

Think of Jil Sander’s S/S 2022 show as an ASMR experience for fashion obsessives, featuring a collection that revealed the sounds of crisp denim and textured leather, jangling sequins, swishing feather-light silk and tactile bouclé. Smocking, cording, padding and coating were all details noted in Lucie and Luke Meier’s S/S 2022 offering, which drew on the duality of dressing, featuring graphic lines, diaphanous shapes and fluid forms. Deckchair-striped dresses were draped around the body, chunky crochet polo shirts were paired with loose denim, trousers sparkled with delicate floral sequins, and oversized suiting was secured asymmetrically across the frame. The designers also spoke of not taking themselves too seriously, an approach exemplified by details riffing on good taste, including tiger print and crystal embellishments. §

https://www.wallpaper.com/fashion/milan-fashion-week-ss-2022-report-0