Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Kenneth Ize to Marine Serre

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Saint Laurent to Courrèges Fashion Week returns to form in

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022: Saint Laurent to Courrèges

Fashion Week returns to form in the French capital. Here is everything you need to know about Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022

The whistle-stop tour around fashion’s major cities, New York, London and Milan continues. Paris Fashion Week kicks off with nine days of digital and IRL presentations, from behemoth brands including Dior and Chanel as well as upcoming talent, from Thebe Magugu to Kenneth Ize. It also culminates with a show dedicated to the late, great Alber Elbaz, featuring pieces celebrating the legacy of the fashion designer, by brands including Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Valentino and Comme des Garçons. As the city hosts the first major ready-to-wear season in 18 months, we present all you need to know about the S/S 2022 womenswear shows as they happen.

Courrèges

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022 Saint Laurent runway show

Courrèges S/S 2022

Two seasons into his creative director role at Courrèges, Nicolas Di Felice staged his first physiccal runway show in a huge painted square on the grass of the Bois de Vincennes, a park on the outside of Paris. For Di Felice, the location is a symbol of freedom and liberation, the place where he reunited with his boyfriend after lockdown and where he has spent past summers dancing. His offering had an equally optimistic and emancipating spirit, drawing on signature silhouettes from the Courrèges, like capes from the Sixties and Nineties, 1964 dresses made from a single strip of fabric and the favourite colours of its founder. Silhouettes were lean and waist-cinching, sporty and scintillating: flared rib leggings were layered with cut-out vinyl dresses, stripe jacquard halternecks paired with thigh-high boots and crop tops teamed with pant-silhouette cargo pants. Clothing for dancing all night with abandon, whatever patch of grass you choose.

Saint Laurent

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022 Saint Laurent runway show

Anthony Vaccarello returned to Paris Fashion Week with a breathtaking show en plein air, featuring the Eiffel Tower as its twinkling backdrop and boasting a show set with a streaming waterfall at its centre. The creative director dedicated the show to Palomo Picasso, the red lipstick-clad, costume jewellery-swathed accessories designer who brought a glamorous, thrift-elevating modernity to Yves Saint Laurent’s atelier when she began working with him in the late 1960s. Here, the silhouette was sleek, strong and sophisticated, oozing glamour, celebrating bold colour and the female form. Le Smoking was reimagined as a lean suit with leggings; cut-out spandex bodysuits twisted around the body; dresses were severe in the shoulder and imagined in bright oranges and lilacs; and stilettos were vertiginous in their silhouette. At the show’s finale, water poured down onto the runway, illuminated by hundreds of dazzling spotlights, a symbol of vital hydration to the thirsty runway show-starved audience.

Thebe Magugu

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022 Saint Laurent runway show

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2022 Saint Laurent runway show
Thebe Magugu S/S 2022

Over the past 18 months, memory has acted as a powerful tool for relieving us from monotony. It’s something that South African designer Thebe Magugu valued for S/S 2022, creating a collection based on the idea of ‘memory as a reservoir for optimism’, drawing on silhouettes in old family photographs, like his grandmother’s pleated skirts and blouses from the 1950s, his mother’s 1960s leg-of-mutton sleeves and 1970s mini skirts. The designer’s Genealogy collection was showcased through a round-table discussion, with Magugu’s family poring over old images, tiled against look-book video of hybrid, narrative-swathed and decade-spanning silhouettes featuring handkerchief-cut lilac dresses with seductive keyhole cut-outs, bright red playsuits with frothing feather trim, and skirts and jackets tessellated with family photos, inspired by regal portraits printed onto calico.

Kenneth Ize

London Fashion Week S/S 2022 Nensi Dojaka

London Fashion Week S/S 2022 Nensi Dojaka
Kennth Ize S/S 2022

Shimmering silk fringing, pleated tiger print, picnic blanket checks, optical stripes, the fabrics showcased on Austrian-Nigerian designer Ize’s S/S 2022 catwalk were sumptuous and tactile in their finish. Spring sees an effusion of optimistic tones and patterns, a signature of the designer, who made his Paris debut for A/W 2020. Ize has a weaving factory in Nigeria, where the majority of his materials are crafted. Here, they translated into insouciant, easy and layered men’s and women’s shapes, from soft tailoring to sarong skirts, lean knitwear to fluid dresses, paired with sporty caps, slouchy shoulder bags and buckled sandals. 

Marine Serre

London Fashion Week S/S 2022 Nensi Dojaka

London Fashion Week S/S 2022 Nensi Dojaka
Marine Serre S/S 2022

Serre forwent a physical show in favour of digital film, Ostal 24, created with regular collaborators Sacha Barbin and Ryan Doubiago, which saw a troupe of diverse models touch down in a seemingly idyllic country house, to perform isolated activities in its rooms and natural surroundings. Always sustainably minded, this was Serre’s most upcycled collection to date, composed of 45 per cent recycled and 45 per cent regenerated materials. For S/S 2022, think bold leathers, patchworked foulard silks, innovative 3D knits (also notable at Sunnei in Milan and Chet Lo in London) and Dutch embroidered tablecloths and tea towels, transformed into Serre’s signature ruched dresses and body suits, bowling shirts and cagoules. Innovative yes, but infinitely wearable, scaled up with a touch of surrealism with jewellery resembling cutlery. §

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